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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.